Saturday's Gray

I hope you're following the song lyrics.....

Said farewell to the nice people at Inverness YH and plodded off in the direction of the bus station. I really should learn not to do shopping when I'm in the same place for a couple of days. So, it was back to Duncanston Crossroads except this time it was sunny. So I spent a few minutes at the side of the road applying sun cream (the first time in a few days) and rediscovering my hat before setting off.

Nothing too exciting to report until I saw my first signpost for John O'Groats at the beginning of the Cromarty Bridge. Nine miles to Alness, 109 to JOG. As we're staying at Alness, that means there's about 100 to go. Once on the other side of the Cromarty Firth I thought 'seals'. Don't know why, except that they are alleged to visit Inverness. Anyway, I saw some almost straight away, on the beach. I have a photo or two but there won't be much more than some indiscriminate lumps to show you but I know they're seals :-)

I then departed the shore and headed inland on cycle path number 1. It was ok but a little annoying. I think a designer had been at work. When it got to a lack of space on one side of the road, there signs and fences and all sorts to get you to cross the road (cyclists dismounting of course) to follow the path. Anyway, I got to Alness in the end 10 and a bit miles from Duncanston.

I walked past the first b&b. Well, you do, don't you. Then there was the Commercial Hotel, not sure about that one. Keep going. Reach Station Hotel but they don't have an en suite twin or double. Err, what's the Commercial Hotel like? Ahem, better than this place, actually, came the reply. Do you have their number? So, the Commercial Hotel it is, in a family room, so beds for everyone, including the cat. If she were here. Mike arrived about an hour and a half after me, so not bad timing really. At least I had a chance to wash!

We weren't sure about eating here, but in the end a quick recce of the High Street found us eating on the premises after all. The locals are friendly, in that they all seem to know each other in the bar. We weren't quite sure why one chap kept looking at us, but we didn't hang around long enough to find out. Mike wasn't wearing his North Face clothes, so it wasn't that.

So, he's snoozing and I've nearly finished writing this. Posting is courtesy of a free wi-fi connection. Whatever that is.......

Tomorrow, the delights of Dornoch. I'm told it's "Do (as in dog) noch" rather than "Doorknock" which I kept saying.

Keep smiling, cos I am.

From Mike

I've been relaying and posting these blog entries and photos from Karen, but am now off to Scotland to join her, so the posting may become a bit more sporadic after this.

Thursday doesn't even start

You'll be pleased to hear that I kept my promise to my feet. We did a grand total of 2.6 miles - walking to the bus stop at Dalwhinnie.

I had originally thought to go just a short ride to Kingussie, one of my original stopovers, rest up today and then continue. But, my feet have already pulled the trump card on me and refused to move once before and I don't want it to get that bad again. So, I caught the same bus but went to Inverness and booked into the YH for two nights.

On arrival I asked for directions to the YH. Oh you'll need to get the bus, it's much further than it looks on the map. How far would that be then? Oh 20 minutes....... I didn't even garmin it but no, it wasn't that long, strolling on sore feet carrying my rucsac. In fact, I even walked back into town, depriving the bus company of yet more revenue, to shop for provisions.

I liked Stirling - there's lots of history to the place. It had a good feel to it. Inverness, I don't know. It's a town like lots of others but it has a lake with an infamous inhabitant (or does it). Seems like the stuff 'to do' is all around and about and not in town itself. I like the idea of boat trips to see dolphins where the sightings aren't guaranteed. Or that you *might* see seals in the river. Pigs might fly too but I did actually see one at the O2 this year!

The main shopping street is pedestrianised and there was a demonstration of Scottish dancing by some teeny weeny children, accompanied by bagpipes (bloody bagpipes). They were all dressed up in kilts, little waistcoats and so on. Concentrating hard, they did so well, toes pointing perfectly, twirling in time they were excellent. A good aspect to it was that it wasn't just tourists watching, myself included, but locals too.

I don't know how on earth I managed that 20 minute walk again, carrying shopping, but I braved it out. Back at the YH I retired quickly to my cupboard, hiding from the family groups about to descend upon the kitchen for tea. This is something I learned quite early on in this journey! Mind you, going later on you have to work round the mass of foreign students cooking and being noisy.

I don't think we see what our own country/nation has to offer when we live here. In Stirling, the significance of the place in the history of the UK as well as Scotland could be a reason, but I was trying to fathom why a herd of late teen French people would be in Inverness. Any ideas?

Friday, I hope to do a walkette of about ten miles and catch the bus back. Rucsac free, that'll be nice! Then on Saturday about the same again from the turnaround point onwards to meet with Mike. It'll be great to see him again :o))

Yes my feet do still hurt. My decision to rest was justified by a large leakage when I was dressing the right foot this morning :-(


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Fek me, didn't mean to do that!

You remember yesterday I said today's plan was to go shorter? It didn't go to plan....

The breakfast at b&b was good, probably the most I've had and I even squirrelled a couple of mini Baby Bels for later.

First bit of the walk was pleasant - some ups and downs and the weather couldn't make up is mind. At 7 miles, I stopped for a coffee at a beautifully positioned hotel at the end of Loch Tummel. For the princely sum of £1, I got a pot of coffee, comfy sofa with a glorious view, advice from the receptionist and use of the loo (of course). Mind you the advice was "It's very hilly that way", "There's not much along the route" and "I can't see where there would be any accommodation". She was lovely and wished me good luck.

I went on to my intended lunch stop where there was indeed bugger all. So for the second it was a picnic lunch, this time propped up by the side of the afternoon hill. Morning's total 12.86 and the weather still indecisive. Unfortunately, I don't want to wear my rainjacket when walking hard ie uphill as I end up damp inside it within seconds. And as I finished lunch it started to rain. Again.

What turned out to be the first part of the afternoon's stroll was steep uphill, along some mild undulations and down again for about 4.5 miles. It was windy and occasionally wet. I finally decided to stick the hood on my head, tie the sleeves round neck and use the jacket as a sort of rain poncho as necessary. You can tell I'm up there in the glamour stakes ;-)

Then I started the search for non-existent accommodation. However, man in a house was very helpful and advised me of a b&b in the right direction, only ten miles away. Oh how I laughed. He didn't have the number for them and I set off, not daring to think what I'd do if they were full.

I then spent the next 3 hours considering what I would do... Thoughts included: cry, offer to sleep in the dog basket/shed/garage/car. The route was on a traffic free cycle path adjacent to the A9, so no dodging traffic. But I wouldn't want to take my bike on it - the surface varied from ok (occasionally) to dreadful, get off and carry your bike. There were Sustrans notices up saying they'd negotiated non-motorised only use of the path. Shame they hadn't asked for a decent surface. I did learn later that the path has been there since 2000 and it was alright to start with.

Sods Law made sure of a good downpour before I reached the Balsporran Cottages where there was a vacancy

My feet really didn't want to do 27.68. No, not at all. I have given them a nice soak and promised not to do much at all tomorrow. They hurt.

There was lots of scenery again :o) and, even better, network coverage so I could catch up with Mike and Megawomble (who got home today).

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Morale booster

I have discovered that there's a sure fire way to get toots from passing motorists! Wearing shorts, stop and bend over say, to examine your shoes. Alternatively, raise one foot onto a wall. And fiddle with your laces. Never fails. Of course, it could be people wishing I'd cover up....

Hills

Cornwall I discovered had some severe undulations but, until today, I haven't had to walk up a proper hill.

This morning started well. About a mile and a half up the road, with forest to the left and fields to the right, a deer exited the trees, paused in front of me then trotted across the road and leapt gracefully over the fence. On the small side, a light reddish-brown colour, no horns. Aww. I was happy!

I did 13 in the morning and had my first picnic lunch, sat by a bridge in someone's garden! The grass was still damp when I spotted this patch of concrete. There didn't seem to be anyone home, so I plonked myself down. Of course, then I saw movement and dashed over to ask if it was ok. Which it was. People aren't phased by my odd requests! I'd already been allowed to use the loo next door. I was amazed that in the middle of nowhere with about three houses huddled together that I found two people home.

It was a good place to rest too as the first mile of the afternoon was relentlessly uphill. The scenery was again spectacular, rugged hills away off into the distance. It was quite windy and for the first time I walked wearing a thin fleece on top of the usual single layer. I'd gone back to trousers too, having been in shorts for a few days now.

The afternoon's 5 went really quickly - I'd given myself permission to start looking for a place to put my head when I'd done that. Going down steep hills is as bad if not worse than going up them and I had both today. And on single track roads where there was no choice but for me to stop to let the occasional vehicle past. My bum has reduced but it still seems to block the way ;o)

I found myself in Kenmore at one end of Loch Tay, beautiful. The Kenmore Hotel is Scotland's oldest inn, apparently. It also seems to think a lot of itself with prices to match. Snooty girl on reception said no, no other accommodation round here you'll have to go to Aberfeldy. She failed to mention the Village Information place bang next door which had a very helpful folder where I found this fabulous b&b in Coshieville, 3 miles along the road and right on my route.

Only downside to Coshieville is the mobile coverage is dreadful. So no catching up with Mike or anyone else. Megawomble may be back from the US but I don't know. It's been strange :-(

I did 22.02 in total. My feet ache and there are new small blisters and leaking things (no pictures I promise). My calf muscle was still tight this morning but it was alright eventually. Tomorrow's plan is a bit less I think.

I've targetted my last day to be Thursday 16th now. As I won't have done the whole walk I'm feeling a bit more flexible about what I do. Although I still want to walk as much as I can!!!

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On the road again

24.83 miles done. Some of it felt like the easiest walking I've done for quite a while.

The morning found me going over a back road by-passing Dunblane and a dual carriageway. It was raining from about mile 2 but this time I got my jacket out, put the rucsac cover on and went forth. Prepared. I don't know how rain can be different but it wasn't as horrible as the other day and my feet didn't get soaked. It was possibly the coolest walking I've done too, so the jacket was stopping me go silly cold. 10.77 to lunch.

I put on dry socks and a new top at lunchtime and hey presto it didn't rain anymore. A few spots but nothing really.

I used a book for my general route and multimap for help with detail, backed up with proper OS 1:50,000 maps. Each night I try to match the 'instructions' to the map. Unfortunately, today was the first where I went off map and only had the 'structions. Of course, I was then convincing myself I'd gone wrong when the right street name and turning didn't appear. Mr Garmin is invaluable here as I rely on him for distance measuring. I flagged down a car and asked after Thornhill St: 'Oh it's a way to go yet'. Bugger. But, it turns out I hadn't gone off course at all, multimap sometimes describes things as turns when they're not, and doesn't tell you when the streetnames change and so on. Yes, I could have spent months poring over maps checking every inch, but I have a life (no arguing...) and generally it's been fine, if a little nerve-wracking.

Coming into Crieff I was feeling quite chirpy but also a niggle was developing in my right calf muscle. The deadly cramp was lurking. I popped into the medical centre to see if by chance they had a masseur to hand. They didn't. I bought some deep heat. Note to travellers: if you're going to use deep heat do it after you've eaten your snack, not before. So, a new reason to go gingerly.

I stepped it out (ignore and it might go away) but I suspect I still looked a bit iffy as a woman offered me a lift with about 2 miles to go. I said no thank you! I would have missed The Sheep too.

Not long to go and I spot this sheep near the road, wriggling its head about. Daft thing had caught its curly horns on a wire fence and couldn't escape. I had vague memories of forumite Redhead doing a good deed for a sheep in distress and not being thanked, but I thought I'd have a look anyway. Of course, the poor creature just got more agitated when I approached. I'd left my wirecutters at home (they weigh a lot) so I checked the mileage and went on.

It was less than a mile to the hotel so I told the lady where it was (0.85 miles from here :-) ) and she said she'd call the neighbour whose sheep it was. Country folk, eh? I described it as having big curly horns, black faced and sheep shape. Londoners, eh?

I've had a bath and my dinner and done tomorrow's map preps. Calf muscle is still a little tight - I shall apply some more Deep Heat to make the room smell nice. Feet know they've worked but I don't *think* there's any new damage. I've chopped off the dead bits. Tomorrow I'm hoping to do around 20. I shall be on map 52 if you're interested.

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