The b&b was very comfortable and the breakfast good but I had a dreadful night's sleep. We'd asked for breakfast at 07.30 so we could get on our way. I was walking again before 9.
The day was dull and overcast, good conditions for walking. Mike went shopping for lunch and to recce the finish. He then cycled back and we did the last 4 or so together. In the last mile or two the sun came out and it was lovely. You could see the islands to the north and the buildings of John O'Groats as they finally came into view. We stopped for a picture by the town sign then Mike went to find the actual start/finish line!
I'd been a bit anxious as I set off to do the walk but once I was doing the last few yards I just started to cry. Too much emotion! So my race finish photo is rubbish as usual! Big hug sorted that anyway, quite quickly :-)
13.57 for the day and about 462 for the walk.
We swiftly retired to a nearby patch of grass to drink champagne from real flutes! No-one else we saw was drinking champers in their official photo :-) At least here they weren't so precious about folk taking their own photos at The Signpost. You were asked to shift for those of us paying though! Lots of cyclists were arriving in packs having finished. The only other walker we saw was a chap we had met at Helmsdale YH, and who we're pretty sure also camped at the same place we b&b-ed at in Dunbeath. He'd taken it more slowly at about 71 days but of course I imagine he did manage to walk it all.
There was a great atmosphere around the place of people having completed the End to End or about to embark on their own journey. Little bits of banter and wishing good luck and the inevitable "It's that way". Plenty of tourists too but they seemed to understand what was going on.
Lunch was leisurely in the sun, then off to the gift shop and yes they did have fridge magnets. We popped along to Duncansby Head the actual most north-easterly spot on the mainland.
And now we're on way home. Premier Inn Glasgow East awaits.
PHEW
What shall we do next.....?
;-)
Thursday 16 July 2009
Wednesday 15 July 2009
Almost there ....
So yesterday we stopped at a campsite in Dunbeath but enjoyed b&b and ate Trevor's food. The restaurant looks like a motorway cafe on the outside but is far more promising once you get in. Apparently there are great plans afoot for a transformation, which is good because the place has fantastic views along the coast from the dining room.
Mike's job today was to find accommodation in Wick, which he did (of course as he's clever like that) and then come and find me no earlier than ten miles bearing a picnic. So, lunch was at 11.45 miles in the corner of a field sitting on my FLM foil blanket. Despite me proclaiming that it was going to rain, it was sunny all morning and I hadn't put on any cream and my hat was in the car. Come the afternoon, all creamed up and be-hatted, a sea fog descended and I was safe from solar damage. Mike ran back 3.6 from the b&b to do his first run for a week and then we walked in to Wick together. Did you know Caithness Candles are based here...?
I'd done a smidge under 20, so after a coffee and some cake (thank you Ann!) I went out again to do about 4 of tomorrow's miles. Total for the day of 23.39, total to-date of about 450 and 13 left for tomorrow.
Almost there.......
Mike's job today was to find accommodation in Wick, which he did (of course as he's clever like that) and then come and find me no earlier than ten miles bearing a picnic. So, lunch was at 11.45 miles in the corner of a field sitting on my FLM foil blanket. Despite me proclaiming that it was going to rain, it was sunny all morning and I hadn't put on any cream and my hat was in the car. Come the afternoon, all creamed up and be-hatted, a sea fog descended and I was safe from solar damage. Mike ran back 3.6 from the b&b to do his first run for a week and then we walked in to Wick together. Did you know Caithness Candles are based here...?
I'd done a smidge under 20, so after a coffee and some cake (thank you Ann!) I went out again to do about 4 of tomorrow's miles. Total for the day of 23.39, total to-date of about 450 and 13 left for tomorrow.
Almost there.......
Tuesday 14 July 2009
Tuesday - two days to go after this
Helmsdale was ahead of where I stopped walking yesterday, so the first 5.11 miles today found me back at the doorstep of the YH. By which time guess what? Yes, it was fekking raining again. I had read in a book that today was probably the hilliest day on this stretch, if not altogether, and the climb out of Helmsdale was long, long but not terribly steep. I just kept going and managed to average 3.7 mph for the morning's 11.7.
The rendezvous for lunch was a layby and I thought we were going to picnic there but Mike suggested that we go up the road to a tea place (so I could go to the toilet indoors and not behind a bush). It was a good idea but happened to be in Dunbeath just past the caravan site where he'd booked us in to stay (in the house not a tent or metal box). So he then drove us back to said layby and left me to walk while he had a bath and a snooze. I refused to know how far it was, I didn't think that was good psychology, especially if it were further than I thought it should be.
The afternoon was dry, thank goodness. Highlight was beating a cyclist up a hill! It was funny, I didn't realise I was competitive until this cyclist went past me on a downhill but the accompanying 'up' was just over there. I thought "I'll have him". Didn't know where that came from at all! Anyway, he stopped to push very quickly, there was a little bit of him leading, me overtaking and so on and then I left him behind. It was a long time (a mile?) before he caught up again. I heckled and said "At last, where have you been?". The reply? "Catching up" :-) After that I didn't care! It turned out that Dunbeath wasn't so far away, so after 8pointsomething I reached the caravan site and turned in. 19.92 for the day.
"Trevor does good food" apparently, so we went a few yards down the road for dinner. Lovely sea view and the food wasn't too bad. They got brownie points for cooking me something not on the menu. The sea had been clad in a very low fog all morning and had only cleared in the late afternoon. The views were magical, not being able to tell where the colours of the water turned into the variations in the sky. I had been experiencing zero network coverage all day, which was a tad annoying, especially today. After we had eaten, we retired to the adjacent bar and I had forced my phone to turn off and turn on again (I don't actually know how to turn on/off my phone - Mike shook his head), Miniwomble managed to get through on a call from Detroit. Apparently, downtown is possibly the most boring place she's ever been to. But. She's seeing Green Day there this evening, so it can't be all bad. It was great to hear from her. A couple of texts from Megawomble sneaked through too. I'd had to use Mike's phone earlier in the day as it was the first time that Orange beat O2 in the availability stakes.
So, two days to go and about 47 miles. I'd seen a sign post not long before the stopover and I read it and thought "I can walk that far in one day if necessary"!! Tomorrow night should find us in Wick.
This post brought to you courtesy of wi-fi at £2.50 a day.
The rendezvous for lunch was a layby and I thought we were going to picnic there but Mike suggested that we go up the road to a tea place (so I could go to the toilet indoors and not behind a bush). It was a good idea but happened to be in Dunbeath just past the caravan site where he'd booked us in to stay (in the house not a tent or metal box). So he then drove us back to said layby and left me to walk while he had a bath and a snooze. I refused to know how far it was, I didn't think that was good psychology, especially if it were further than I thought it should be.
The afternoon was dry, thank goodness. Highlight was beating a cyclist up a hill! It was funny, I didn't realise I was competitive until this cyclist went past me on a downhill but the accompanying 'up' was just over there. I thought "I'll have him". Didn't know where that came from at all! Anyway, he stopped to push very quickly, there was a little bit of him leading, me overtaking and so on and then I left him behind. It was a long time (a mile?) before he caught up again. I heckled and said "At last, where have you been?". The reply? "Catching up" :-) After that I didn't care! It turned out that Dunbeath wasn't so far away, so after 8pointsomething I reached the caravan site and turned in. 19.92 for the day.
"Trevor does good food" apparently, so we went a few yards down the road for dinner. Lovely sea view and the food wasn't too bad. They got brownie points for cooking me something not on the menu. The sea had been clad in a very low fog all morning and had only cleared in the late afternoon. The views were magical, not being able to tell where the colours of the water turned into the variations in the sky. I had been experiencing zero network coverage all day, which was a tad annoying, especially today. After we had eaten, we retired to the adjacent bar and I had forced my phone to turn off and turn on again (I don't actually know how to turn on/off my phone - Mike shook his head), Miniwomble managed to get through on a call from Detroit. Apparently, downtown is possibly the most boring place she's ever been to. But. She's seeing Green Day there this evening, so it can't be all bad. It was great to hear from her. A couple of texts from Megawomble sneaked through too. I'd had to use Mike's phone earlier in the day as it was the first time that Orange beat O2 in the availability stakes.
So, two days to go and about 47 miles. I'd seen a sign post not long before the stopover and I read it and thought "I can walk that far in one day if necessary"!! Tomorrow night should find us in Wick.
This post brought to you courtesy of wi-fi at £2.50 a day.
Monday 13 July 2009
Monday I have Thursday on my mind
We left Dornoch and the lovely landlord and it wasn't raining. Mike did the first 6 with me as we were on quiet back roads and then cycled to the car and went forward to Golspie for our lunch.
We're pretty much on the coast all the time now and saw loads of seals sunbathing (well - if it had been sunny) on a sandbank on Loch Fleet. Fantastic!! We also saw lots of rabbits, nothing new there except I confirmed to myself that I wasn't going bonkers the other day when I thought I spotted a black bunny. I saw another and so did Mike The weather did hold quite well: Mike got caught in a shower and I didn't.
Golspie wasn't overburdened with choice for lunch so we had baked potatoes at a hotel/pub. Mike drove on to Helmsdale to do the shopping and accommodation finding while I enjoyed the delights of the A9. It's become my new A30. I think the pattern is now set for the next three days of walking - between sea and hills. Could be worse!
We got in at the Helmsdale YH. Mike picked me up along the way back from Brora where he realised he had to go to find fuel. 11.07 in the morning and 12.03 this afternoon. Not bad.
We're pretty much on the coast all the time now and saw loads of seals sunbathing (well - if it had been sunny) on a sandbank on Loch Fleet. Fantastic!! We also saw lots of rabbits, nothing new there except I confirmed to myself that I wasn't going bonkers the other day when I thought I spotted a black bunny. I saw another and so did Mike
Golspie wasn't overburdened with choice for lunch so we had baked potatoes at a hotel/pub. Mike drove on to Helmsdale to do the shopping and accommodation finding while I enjoyed the delights of the A9. It's become my new A30. I think the pattern is now set for the next three days of walking - between sea and hills. Could be worse!
We got in at the Helmsdale YH. Mike picked me up along the way back from Brora where he realised he had to go to find fuel. 11.07 in the morning and 12.03 this afternoon. Not bad.
Sunday report - Real Clothes!
We left the free wi-fi hotspot of Alness and made our separate ways forward. Me, on foot, continuing my liaison with cycle route number 1 and Mike driving on to Dornoch in search of our next night's bed.
The weather was 'mixed' to start with and then settled into a familiar pattern. RAIN. Mike started to text from Dornoch, saying how different it was to Alness - champagne in the fridge at the local Spar and real restaurants. But I had to stop the conversation as I didn't want to drown the phone.
The route was pretty flat and very low traffic. A recumbent tricyclist and friend went past, as did a runner who said hello. Of course I replied. A couple of other walkers were sheltering under a tree and we exchanged 'lovely day's.
I saw a grouse! Well it looked like one of those birds on the front of a whisky bottle so I suppose that's what it was. There was a very cute grey calf too, that stood and watched me go by. And I found sheep that didn't run off just because I was on the other side of a fence or wall to them. Perhaps my sheep-friendly body language is improving.
Mike found me about a mile before Tain. On his bike, he was sodden. I had thought he would be perfectly justified in driving to lunch and then letting me continue alone. We had a discussion about who was mad. Score draw I think!
Tain appeared to be another one of those towns that was shut but we finally found the Sunflowers Cafe and dripped our way in for some lunch and a rest. Weather was bit drier in the afternoon and we got to Dornoch. 20.7 miles done.
Mike had warned me that the b&b was 'characterful', the first quirk being no breakfast! It was in one of those lovely stone built villas that I'd been walking past for days, so it was great to go in one. The proprietor was aged 80 and had run the place for about 20 years, which is possibly when it was last decorated. But it was like going to stay at your favourite uncle's. We could make our own tea and coffee in the conservatory and use the lounge for tv or just ... lounging. There were oil paintings, prints of horses, family photos and all sorts, including table tennis trophies. The owner I think liked to meet people as much as being bothered to run a b&b. Like many people, he had led an interesting life - been homeless and on the streets of Hammersmith as a youth, worked in aerospace and been a union person, been on a Concorde test flight. We had a chat about Tony Benn who he had met several times through his union involvement.
In the evening we had a lovely meal at Luigi's over the road. We were their last booking at 8.30pm - us and our London ways. We had champagne and wore real clothes, as opposed to technical kit in need of a wash. Mike had brought me some stuff to wear at the end of the walk, so I broke into that. I even had some jewellery to wear as I'd picked some up in M&S Inverness to go with my dress for the Queen's Tea Party!
In the morning, we were presented with a little book of Mr Landlord's favourite clippings, quotes and general pieces. What a wonderful chap!
Posting this a little late as now Mike's here, well, I've got better things to do ;-)
The weather was 'mixed' to start with and then settled into a familiar pattern. RAIN. Mike started to text from Dornoch, saying how different it was to Alness - champagne in the fridge at the local Spar and real restaurants. But I had to stop the conversation as I didn't want to drown the phone.
The route was pretty flat and very low traffic. A recumbent tricyclist and friend went past, as did a runner who said hello. Of course I replied. A couple of other walkers were sheltering under a tree and we exchanged 'lovely day's.
I saw a grouse! Well it looked like one of those birds on the front of a whisky bottle so I suppose that's what it was. There was a very cute grey calf too, that stood and watched me go by. And I found sheep that didn't run off just because I was on the other side of a fence or wall to them. Perhaps my sheep-friendly body language is improving.
Mike found me about a mile before Tain. On his bike, he was sodden. I had thought he would be perfectly justified in driving to lunch and then letting me continue alone. We had a discussion about who was mad. Score draw I think!
Tain appeared to be another one of those towns that was shut but we finally found the Sunflowers Cafe and dripped our way in for some lunch and a rest. Weather was bit drier in the afternoon and we got to Dornoch. 20.7 miles done.
Mike had warned me that the b&b was 'characterful', the first quirk being no breakfast! It was in one of those lovely stone built villas that I'd been walking past for days, so it was great to go in one. The proprietor was aged 80 and had run the place for about 20 years, which is possibly when it was last decorated. But it was like going to stay at your favourite uncle's. We could make our own tea and coffee in the conservatory and use the lounge for tv or just ... lounging. There were oil paintings, prints of horses, family photos and all sorts, including table tennis trophies. The owner I think liked to meet people as much as being bothered to run a b&b. Like many people, he had led an interesting life - been homeless and on the streets of Hammersmith as a youth, worked in aerospace and been a union person, been on a Concorde test flight. We had a chat about Tony Benn who he had met several times through his union involvement.
In the evening we had a lovely meal at Luigi's over the road. We were their last booking at 8.30pm - us and our London ways. We had champagne and wore real clothes, as opposed to technical kit in need of a wash. Mike had brought me some stuff to wear at the end of the walk, so I broke into that. I even had some jewellery to wear as I'd picked some up in M&S Inverness to go with my dress for the Queen's Tea Party!
In the morning, we were presented with a little book of Mr Landlord's favourite clippings, quotes and general pieces. What a wonderful chap!
Posting this a little late as now Mike's here, well, I've got better things to do ;-)
Sunday 12 July 2009
A revised schedule
Saturday: Duncanston to Alness and meet up with Mike :o))
Sunday: Alness to Dornoch
Monday: Dornoch to Lothbeg (middle of nowhere between Brora and Helmsdale - stay at one of those two)
Tuesday: Lothbeg to Dunbeath
Wednesday: Dunbeath to Wick
Thursday: Wick to JOG.......
Sunday: Alness to Dornoch
Monday: Dornoch to Lothbeg (middle of nowhere between Brora and Helmsdale - stay at one of those two)
Tuesday: Lothbeg to Dunbeath
Wednesday: Dunbeath to Wick
Thursday: Wick to JOG.......
Belated Friday Blog
Sorry this is late - beanz posting but the beanz home network is struggling to cope with the traffic of two teenbeanzes home from university and the router is overheating!
Friday 10th July
Just the ten miles (or so)
Garmin says 10.68 today but I managed to stop it briefly so I really did about 11.2. Near enough to ten I suppose.
I had a real case of cba this morning. Don't know why. Perhaps I was finally getting really pi55ed off with feet hurting. Kept hitting the snooze button until finally Mike texted me and I thought I'd better shift. He said stay in bed but you can't do that in a YH as they chuck you all out for a few hours to do cleaning etc. So I got out the front door just after ten.
I worked my through town then the industrial estate, towards the bridge. It hadn't occurred to me to think what it might be like but I wasn't impressed when I saw it. Yes, I'm sure the Kessock Bridge is structurally sound but the little shared foot and cycle path could have been a bit wider, please, with a more solid fence on the outer edge. Anyone who's been with me while having a vertigo induced panic attack can tell you it's not always logical to a non-sufferer. Anyway, I didn't throw a wobbly and lived to reach the other side.
North Kessock itself seemed very nice. Facing Inverness across the Beauly Firth, little cottages, the odd tea shop, a tragemaker it was good. From there I continued along cycle path number 1 to Tore and thence along the grass verge of the A9 to Duncanston where I would catch the bus back.
A friendly cow - no zooming involved!
These national cycle routes are quite handy. Not (m)any cyclists on them and ok to walk on. I've become quite fond of them. I had initially planned to go only to Tore but the bus doesn't stop there so "Duncanston Crossroads" is where I headed. And that's exactly what it was! There wasn't even a post just the markings for "BUS STOP" on the road (which I noticed thankfully). I sat down on the kerb and tucked into one of my two for £1 flapjacks from Holland & Barrett, having missed the half-hourly bus by five minutes. Of course.
Wearing a hi vis vest can be useful especially when the bus driver isn't expecting there to be anyone at this remote stop! So nearly three and a half hours to get there and about 12 minutes back to the bus station. Why am I doing this??
So then I'm back in town, it's not even three o'clock. What am I supposed to do? My daughter's voice wafted through the ether and said 'Starbucks' so I obeyed! Coffee and a chocolate cookie, some texting and talking and a few things were sorted quite nicely. Some more random shopping and talking and it was gone five when I finally made it back to the YH.
The lovely Beanz has resumed blog mistress duties now that Mike is on his way to rejoin me for the last phase. So be nice to her :-)
Friday 10th July
Just the ten miles (or so)
Garmin says 10.68 today but I managed to stop it briefly so I really did about 11.2. Near enough to ten I suppose.
I had a real case of cba this morning. Don't know why. Perhaps I was finally getting really pi55ed off with feet hurting. Kept hitting the snooze button until finally Mike texted me and I thought I'd better shift. He said stay in bed but you can't do that in a YH as they chuck you all out for a few hours to do cleaning etc. So I got out the front door just after ten.
I worked my through town then the industrial estate, towards the bridge. It hadn't occurred to me to think what it might be like but I wasn't impressed when I saw it. Yes, I'm sure the Kessock Bridge is structurally sound but the little shared foot and cycle path could have been a bit wider, please, with a more solid fence on the outer edge. Anyone who's been with me while having a vertigo induced panic attack can tell you it's not always logical to a non-sufferer. Anyway, I didn't throw a wobbly and lived to reach the other side.North Kessock itself seemed very nice. Facing Inverness across the Beauly Firth, little cottages, the odd tea shop, a tragemaker it was good. From there I continued along cycle path number 1 to Tore and thence along the grass verge of the A9 to Duncanston where I would catch the bus back.
A friendly cow - no zooming involved!
These national cycle routes are quite handy. Not (m)any cyclists on them and ok to walk on. I've become quite fond of them. I had initially planned to go only to Tore but the bus doesn't stop there so "Duncanston Crossroads" is where I headed. And that's exactly what it was! There wasn't even a post just the markings for "BUS STOP" on the road (which I noticed thankfully). I sat down on the kerb and tucked into one of my two for £1 flapjacks from Holland & Barrett, having missed the half-hourly bus by five minutes. Of course.
Wearing a hi vis vest can be useful especially when the bus driver isn't expecting there to be anyone at this remote stop! So nearly three and a half hours to get there and about 12 minutes back to the bus station. Why am I doing this??
So then I'm back in town, it's not even three o'clock. What am I supposed to do? My daughter's voice wafted through the ether and said 'Starbucks' so I obeyed! Coffee and a chocolate cookie, some texting and talking and a few things were sorted quite nicely. Some more random shopping and talking and it was gone five when I finally made it back to the YH.
The lovely Beanz has resumed blog mistress duties now that Mike is on his way to rejoin me for the last phase. So be nice to her :-)
Saturday 11 July 2009
Saturday's Gray
I hope you're following the song lyrics.....
Said farewell to the nice people at Inverness YH and plodded off in the direction of the bus station. I really should learn not to do shopping when I'm in the same place for a couple of days. So, it was back to Duncanston Crossroads except this time it was sunny. So I spent a few minutes at the side of the road applying sun cream (the first time in a few days) and rediscovering my hat before setting off.
Nothing too exciting to report until I saw my first signpost for John O'Groats at the beginning of the Cromarty Bridge. Nine miles to Alness, 109 to JOG. As we're staying at Alness, that means there's about 100 to go. Once on the other side of the Cromarty Firth I thought 'seals'. Don't know why, except that they are alleged to visit Inverness. Anyway, I saw some almost straight away, on the beach. I have a photo or two but there won't be much more than some indiscriminate lumps to show you but I know they're seals :-)
I then departed the shore and headed inland on cycle path number 1. It was ok but a little annoying. I think a designer had been at work. When it got to a lack of space on one side of the road, there signs and fences and all sorts to get you to cross the road (cyclists dismounting of course) to follow the path. Anyway, I got to Alness in the end 10 and a bit miles from Duncanston.
I walked past the first b&b. Well, you do, don't you. Then there was the Commercial Hotel, not sure about that one. Keep going. Reach Station Hotel but they don't have an en suite twin or double. Err, what's the Commercial Hotel like? Ahem, better than this place, actually, came the reply. Do you have their number? So, the Commercial Hotel it is, in a family room, so beds for everyone, including the cat. If she were here. Mike arrived about an hour and a half after me, so not bad timing really. At least I had a chance to wash!
We weren't sure about eating here, but in the end a quick recce of the High Street found us eating on the premises after all. The locals are friendly, in that they all seem to know each other in the bar. We weren't quite sure why one chap kept looking at us, but we didn't hang around long enough to find out. Mike wasn't wearing his North Face clothes, so it wasn't that.
So, he's snoozing and I've nearly finished writing this. Posting is courtesy of a free wi-fi connection. Whatever that is.......
Tomorrow, the delights of Dornoch. I'm told it's "Do (as in dog) noch" rather than "Doorknock" which I kept saying.
Keep smiling, cos I am.
Said farewell to the nice people at Inverness YH and plodded off in the direction of the bus station. I really should learn not to do shopping when I'm in the same place for a couple of days. So, it was back to Duncanston Crossroads except this time it was sunny. So I spent a few minutes at the side of the road applying sun cream (the first time in a few days) and rediscovering my hat before setting off.
Nothing too exciting to report until I saw my first signpost for John O'Groats at the beginning of the Cromarty Bridge. Nine miles to Alness, 109 to JOG. As we're staying at Alness, that means there's about 100 to go. Once on the other side of the Cromarty Firth I thought 'seals'. Don't know why, except that they are alleged to visit Inverness. Anyway, I saw some almost straight away, on the beach. I have a photo or two but there won't be much more than some indiscriminate lumps to show you but I know they're seals :-)
I then departed the shore and headed inland on cycle path number 1. It was ok but a little annoying. I think a designer had been at work. When it got to a lack of space on one side of the road, there signs and fences and all sorts to get you to cross the road (cyclists dismounting of course) to follow the path. Anyway, I got to Alness in the end 10 and a bit miles from Duncanston.
I walked past the first b&b. Well, you do, don't you. Then there was the Commercial Hotel, not sure about that one. Keep going. Reach Station Hotel but they don't have an en suite twin or double. Err, what's the Commercial Hotel like? Ahem, better than this place, actually, came the reply. Do you have their number? So, the Commercial Hotel it is, in a family room, so beds for everyone, including the cat. If she were here. Mike arrived about an hour and a half after me, so not bad timing really. At least I had a chance to wash!
We weren't sure about eating here, but in the end a quick recce of the High Street found us eating on the premises after all. The locals are friendly, in that they all seem to know each other in the bar. We weren't quite sure why one chap kept looking at us, but we didn't hang around long enough to find out. Mike wasn't wearing his North Face clothes, so it wasn't that.
So, he's snoozing and I've nearly finished writing this. Posting is courtesy of a free wi-fi connection. Whatever that is.......
Tomorrow, the delights of Dornoch. I'm told it's "Do (as in dog) noch" rather than "Doorknock" which I kept saying.
Keep smiling, cos I am.
Friday 10 July 2009
From Mike
I've been relaying and posting these blog entries and photos from Karen, but am now off to Scotland to join her, so the posting may become a bit more sporadic after this.
Thursday doesn't even start
You'll be pleased to hear that I kept my promise to my feet. We did a grand total of 2.6 miles - walking to the bus stop at Dalwhinnie.
I had originally thought to go just a short ride to Kingussie, one of my original stopovers, rest up today and then continue. But, my feet have already pulled the trump card on me and refused to move once before and I don't want it to get that bad again. So, I caught the same bus but went to Inverness and booked into the YH for two nights.
On arrival I asked for directions to the YH. Oh you'll need to get the bus, it's much further than it looks on the map. How far would that be then? Oh 20 minutes....... I didn't even garmin it but no, it wasn't that long, strolling on sore feet carrying my rucsac. In fact, I even walked back into town, depriving the bus company of yet more revenue, to shop for provisions.
I liked Stirling - there's lots of history to the place. It had a good feel to it. Inverness, I don't know. It's a town like lots of others but it has a lake with an infamous inhabitant (or does it). Seems like the stuff 'to do' is all around and about and not in town itself. I like the idea of boat trips to see dolphins where the sightings aren't guaranteed. Or that you *might* see seals in the river. Pigs might fly too but I did actually see one at the O2 this year!
The main shopping street is pedestrianised and there was a demonstration of Scottish dancing by some teeny weeny children, accompanied by bagpipes (bloody bagpipes). They were all dressed up in kilts, little waistcoats and so on. Concentrating hard, they did so well, toes pointing perfectly, twirling in time they were excellent. A good aspect to it was that it wasn't just tourists watching, myself included, but locals too.
I don't know how on earth I managed that 20 minute walk again, carrying shopping, but I braved it out. Back at the YH I retired quickly to my cupboard, hiding from the family groups about to descend upon the kitchen for tea. This is something I learned quite early on in this journey! Mind you, going later on you have to work round the mass of foreign students cooking and being noisy.
I don't think we see what our own country/nation has to offer when we live here. In Stirling, the significance of the place in the history of the UK as well as Scotland could be a reason, but I was trying to fathom why a herd of late teen French people would be in Inverness. Any ideas?
Friday, I hope to do a walkette of about ten miles and catch the bus back. Rucsac free, that'll be nice! Then on Saturday about the same again from the turnaround point onwards to meet with Mike. It'll be great to see him again :o))
Yes my feet do still hurt. My decision to rest was justified by a large leakage when I was dressing the right foot this morning :-(
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I had originally thought to go just a short ride to Kingussie, one of my original stopovers, rest up today and then continue. But, my feet have already pulled the trump card on me and refused to move once before and I don't want it to get that bad again. So, I caught the same bus but went to Inverness and booked into the YH for two nights.
On arrival I asked for directions to the YH. Oh you'll need to get the bus, it's much further than it looks on the map. How far would that be then? Oh 20 minutes....... I didn't even garmin it but no, it wasn't that long, strolling on sore feet carrying my rucsac. In fact, I even walked back into town, depriving the bus company of yet more revenue, to shop for provisions.
I liked Stirling - there's lots of history to the place. It had a good feel to it. Inverness, I don't know. It's a town like lots of others but it has a lake with an infamous inhabitant (or does it). Seems like the stuff 'to do' is all around and about and not in town itself. I like the idea of boat trips to see dolphins where the sightings aren't guaranteed. Or that you *might* see seals in the river. Pigs might fly too but I did actually see one at the O2 this year!
The main shopping street is pedestrianised and there was a demonstration of Scottish dancing by some teeny weeny children, accompanied by bagpipes (bloody bagpipes). They were all dressed up in kilts, little waistcoats and so on. Concentrating hard, they did so well, toes pointing perfectly, twirling in time they were excellent. A good aspect to it was that it wasn't just tourists watching, myself included, but locals too.
I don't know how on earth I managed that 20 minute walk again, carrying shopping, but I braved it out. Back at the YH I retired quickly to my cupboard, hiding from the family groups about to descend upon the kitchen for tea. This is something I learned quite early on in this journey! Mind you, going later on you have to work round the mass of foreign students cooking and being noisy.
I don't think we see what our own country/nation has to offer when we live here. In Stirling, the significance of the place in the history of the UK as well as Scotland could be a reason, but I was trying to fathom why a herd of late teen French people would be in Inverness. Any ideas?
Friday, I hope to do a walkette of about ten miles and catch the bus back. Rucsac free, that'll be nice! Then on Saturday about the same again from the turnaround point onwards to meet with Mike. It'll be great to see him again :o))
Yes my feet do still hurt. My decision to rest was justified by a large leakage when I was dressing the right foot this morning :-(
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Thursday 9 July 2009
Fek me, didn't mean to do that!
You remember yesterday I said today's plan was to go shorter? It didn't go to plan....
The breakfast at b&b was good, probably the most I've had and I even squirrelled a couple of mini Baby Bels for later.
First bit of the walk was pleasant - some ups and downs and the weather couldn't make up is mind. At 7 miles, I stopped for a coffee at a beautifully positioned hotel at the end of Loch Tummel. For the princely sum of £1, I got a pot of coffee, comfy sofa with a glorious view, advice from the receptionist and use of the loo (of course). Mind you the advice was "It's very hilly that way", "There's not much along the route" and "I can't see where there would be any accommodation". She was lovely and wished me good luck.
I went on to my intended lunch stop where there was indeed bugger all. So for the second it was a picnic lunch, this time propped up by the side of the afternoon hill. Morning's total 12.86 and the weather still indecisive. Unfortunately, I don't want to wear my rainjacket when walking hard ie uphill as I end up damp inside it within seconds. And as I finished lunch it started to rain. Again.
What turned out to be the first part of the afternoon's stroll was steep uphill, along some mild undulations and down again for about 4.5 miles. It was windy and occasionally wet. I finally decided to stick the hood on my head, tie the sleeves round neck and use the jacket as a sort of rain poncho as necessary. You can tell I'm up there in the glamour stakes ;-)
Then I started the search for non-existent accommodation. However, man in a house was very helpful and advised me of a b&b in the right direction, only ten miles away. Oh how I laughed. He didn't have the number for them and I set off, not daring to think what I'd do if they were full.
I then spent the next 3 hours considering what I would do... Thoughts included: cry, offer to sleep in the dog basket/shed/garage/car. The route was on a traffic free cycle path adjacent to the A9, so no dodging traffic. But I wouldn't want to take my bike on it - the surface varied from ok (occasionally) to dreadful, get off and carry your bike. There were Sustrans notices up saying they'd negotiated non-motorised only use of the path. Shame they hadn't asked for a decent surface. I did learn later that the path has been there since 2000 and it was alright to start with.
Sods Law made sure of a good downpour before I reached the Balsporran Cottages where there was a vacancy
My feet really didn't want to do 27.68. No, not at all. I have given them a nice soak and promised not to do much at all tomorrow. They hurt.
There was lots of scenery again :o) and, even better, network coverage so I could catch up with Mike and Megawomble (who got home today).
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Wednesday 8 July 2009
Morale booster
I have discovered that there's a sure fire way to get toots from passing motorists! Wearing shorts, stop and bend over say, to examine your shoes. Alternatively, raise one foot onto a wall. And fiddle with your laces. Never fails. Of course, it could be people wishing I'd cover up....
Hills
Cornwall I discovered had some severe undulations but, until today, I haven't had to walk up a proper hill.
This morning started well. About a mile and a half up the road, with forest to the left and fields to the right, a deer exited the trees, paused in front of me then trotted across the road and leapt gracefully over the fence. On the small side, a light reddish-brown colour, no horns. Aww. I was happy!
I did 13 in the morning and had my first picnic lunch, sat by a bridge in someone's garden! The grass was still damp when I spotted this patch of concrete. There didn't seem to be anyone home, so I plonked myself down. Of course, then I saw movement and dashed over to ask if it was ok. Which it was. People aren't phased by my odd requests! I'd already been allowed to use the loo next door. I was amazed that in the middle of nowhere with about three houses huddled together that I found two people home.
It was a good place to rest too as the first mile of the afternoon was relentlessly uphill. The scenery was again spectacular, rugged hills away off into the distance. It was quite windy and for the first time I walked wearing a thin fleece on top of the usual single layer. I'd gone back to trousers too, having been in shorts for a few days now.
The afternoon's 5 went really quickly - I'd given myself permission to start looking for a place to put my head when I'd done that. Going down steep hills is as bad if not worse than going up them and I had both today. And on single track roads where there was no choice but for me to stop to let the occasional vehicle past. My bum has reduced but it still seems to block the way ;o)
I found myself in Kenmore at one end of Loch Tay, beautiful. The Kenmore Hotel is Scotland's oldest inn, apparently. It also seems to think a lot of itself with prices to match. Snooty girl on reception said no, no other accommodation round here you'll have to go to Aberfeldy. She failed to mention the Village Information place bang next door which had a very helpful folder where I found this fabulous b&b in Coshieville, 3 miles along the road and right on my route.
Only downside to Coshieville is the mobile coverage is dreadful. So no catching up with Mike or anyone else. Megawomble may be back from the US but I don't know. It's been strange :-(
I did 22.02 in total. My feet ache and there are new small blisters and leaking things (no pictures I promise). My calf muscle was still tight this morning but it was alright eventually. Tomorrow's plan is a bit less I think.
I've targetted my last day to be Thursday 16th now. As I won't have done the whole walk I'm feeling a bit more flexible about what I do. Although I still want to walk as much as I can!!!
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This morning started well. About a mile and a half up the road, with forest to the left and fields to the right, a deer exited the trees, paused in front of me then trotted across the road and leapt gracefully over the fence. On the small side, a light reddish-brown colour, no horns. Aww. I was happy!
I did 13 in the morning and had my first picnic lunch, sat by a bridge in someone's garden! The grass was still damp when I spotted this patch of concrete. There didn't seem to be anyone home, so I plonked myself down. Of course, then I saw movement and dashed over to ask if it was ok. Which it was. People aren't phased by my odd requests! I'd already been allowed to use the loo next door. I was amazed that in the middle of nowhere with about three houses huddled together that I found two people home.
It was a good place to rest too as the first mile of the afternoon was relentlessly uphill. The scenery was again spectacular, rugged hills away off into the distance. It was quite windy and for the first time I walked wearing a thin fleece on top of the usual single layer. I'd gone back to trousers too, having been in shorts for a few days now.
The afternoon's 5 went really quickly - I'd given myself permission to start looking for a place to put my head when I'd done that. Going down steep hills is as bad if not worse than going up them and I had both today. And on single track roads where there was no choice but for me to stop to let the occasional vehicle past. My bum has reduced but it still seems to block the way ;o)
I found myself in Kenmore at one end of Loch Tay, beautiful. The Kenmore Hotel is Scotland's oldest inn, apparently. It also seems to think a lot of itself with prices to match. Snooty girl on reception said no, no other accommodation round here you'll have to go to Aberfeldy. She failed to mention the Village Information place bang next door which had a very helpful folder where I found this fabulous b&b in Coshieville, 3 miles along the road and right on my route.
Only downside to Coshieville is the mobile coverage is dreadful. So no catching up with Mike or anyone else. Megawomble may be back from the US but I don't know. It's been strange :-(
I did 22.02 in total. My feet ache and there are new small blisters and leaking things (no pictures I promise). My calf muscle was still tight this morning but it was alright eventually. Tomorrow's plan is a bit less I think.
I've targetted my last day to be Thursday 16th now. As I won't have done the whole walk I'm feeling a bit more flexible about what I do. Although I still want to walk as much as I can!!!
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Tuesday 7 July 2009
On the road again
24.83 miles done. Some of it felt like the easiest walking I've done for quite a while.
The morning found me going over a back road by-passing Dunblane and a dual carriageway. It was raining from about mile 2 but this time I got my jacket out, put the rucsac cover on and went forth. Prepared. I don't know how rain can be different but it wasn't as horrible as the other day and my feet didn't get soaked. It was possibly the coolest walking I've done too, so the jacket was stopping me go silly cold. 10.77 to lunch.
I put on dry socks and a new top at lunchtime and hey presto it didn't rain anymore. A few spots but nothing really.
I used a book for my general route and multimap for help with detail, backed up with proper OS 1:50,000 maps. Each night I try to match the 'instructions' to the map. Unfortunately, today was the first where I went off map and only had the 'structions. Of course, I was then convincing myself I'd gone wrong when the right street name and turning didn't appear. Mr Garmin is invaluable here as I rely on him for distance measuring. I flagged down a car and asked after Thornhill St: 'Oh it's a way to go yet'. Bugger. But, it turns out I hadn't gone off course at all, multimap sometimes describes things as turns when they're not, and doesn't tell you when the streetnames change and so on. Yes, I could have spent months poring over maps checking every inch, but I have a life (no arguing...) and generally it's been fine, if a little nerve-wracking.
Coming into Crieff I was feeling quite chirpy but also a niggle was developing in my right calf muscle. The deadly cramp was lurking. I popped into the medical centre to see if by chance they had a masseur to hand. They didn't. I bought some deep heat. Note to travellers: if you're going to use deep heat do it after you've eaten your snack, not before. So, a new reason to go gingerly.
I stepped it out (ignore and it might go away) but I suspect I still looked a bit iffy as a woman offered me a lift with about 2 miles to go. I said no thank you! I would have missed The Sheep too.
Not long to go and I spot this sheep near the road, wriggling its head about. Daft thing had caught its curly horns on a wire fence and couldn't escape. I had vague memories of forumite Redhead doing a good deed for a sheep in distress and not being thanked, but I thought I'd have a look anyway. Of course, the poor creature just got more agitated when I approached. I'd left my wirecutters at home (they weigh a lot) so I checked the mileage and went on.
It was less than a mile to the hotel so I told the lady where it was (0.85 miles from here :-) ) and she said she'd call the neighbour whose sheep it was. Country folk, eh? I described it as having big curly horns, black faced and sheep shape. Londoners, eh?
I've had a bath and my dinner and done tomorrow's map preps. Calf muscle is still a little tight - I shall apply some more Deep Heat to make the room smell nice. Feet know they've worked but I don't *think* there's any new damage. I've chopped off the dead bits. Tomorrow I'm hoping to do around 20. I shall be on map 52 if you're interested.
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Sunday 5 July 2009
Sunday it must be Stirling
A bit of a lie in today as I was going to catch the 11.12 train out of Lanark. Left the YH a few minutes after deadline but nice man, who obviously has had the training, smiled warmly and wished me a good day.
Nearly into Glasgow, I texted a friend to see if she wanted to meet for lunch but she replied that she was 'down south'. Whether that was the Borders or Brighton, I don't know :-)
Found my way to the bus station and as everyone started to shuffle anxiously towards the M8 to Dundee, I noticed they were all clutching tickets. Hmmmm. Strangely, in my 'I'm a Londoner' sort of way, I was third onto the bus (yes behind the customary senior citizen/cheap ticket couple) and the driver sighed and bid me sit down out of the way until everyone else has boarded. Great, I got my favourite seat at the front and I wasn't thrown off! Plenty of lovely scenery again and one touching incident:
A chap and I presume his son (late teens at a guess) went to get on the bus. Son seemed to have learning difficulties/special needs. He got on first, looked up the vehicle and said something to the effect that he'd catch the next one. Too many people perhaps. The father quietly said there isn't another it's Sunday and apologised to the driver, following son. He'd just got off a bus where the next one was in 2 hours. He showed no anger, frustration or anything. Just talked to son calmly. Some people have to deal with so much, the rest of us should remember how lucky we are.
At Stirling, I was able to check in to YH nice and early, one thing you seem completely unable to do before 5pm in England. So dumped my stuff and climbed the hill to Stirling Castle. Which was fabulous. Spent a great 2-3 hours there, yet again revealing to myself my complete ignorance of a lot of history. I love castles and this was excellent. The views were incredible too, but perhaps that's why it was put there, to spot invaders....
Back at the hostel there seemed to be an awful lot of young people about, say 10-12 yo. After they'd troughed I sneaked into the kitchen for some food and a couple of a certain age were setting up some music thing in the big part of the dining area. This is a large hostel ~130 guests. Then the youngsters trooped back in, all 40 ish of them. Early signs were 'teach folk dancing to yoof'. I left quickly.
Terrible toe hasn't been quite so bad today so, fingers crossed, I shall be plodding again in the morning.
And you'll be back at work :o)
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New Lanark
Ok, so the *plan* was to catch the bus to Biggar (I love that name) and then walk about 13 to New Lanark. Well. I left the b&b in good time and hit the shops. Topped up on some first aid items, posted a few maps back home and bought the Saturday sudoku (disguised as the Times). I was hobbling. Shoes were nice and dry though :-)
I think country buses are run for senior citizens. Hardly anyone is fool enough to pay to use them, they've all got passes except me. And no, that's NOT the birthday that's coming up soon, thank you. They're good though and run to timetables and you expect them to turn up. Fortunately, today was the first time I came across one running late and this meant I caught it.
Yes, while on the first bus my toe and head were having a discussion as to the merits of a 13 mile walk. The toe won. I arrived in Lanark before midday, sought out some food and did walk about a mile and a half to New Lanark where the YH is.
I'd not known anything about the place nor of Robert Owen. He pioneered the idea of work communities, campaigned for better working conditions, against child labour and so on. When he took on ownership of the mills at New Lanark, he also provided the first ever workplace nursery, and a school, 'decent' accommodation; created the first ever co-operative shop; provided a health care service. And so on. His views were not popular amongst employers - those things cost money. The 'village' provided all the employees would need.
All fascinating stuff and the setting on the banks of the Clyde is amazing. There's been a phenomenal restoration job done. The village is now lived in again (at a density lower than 12 people to two rooms) and there's a visitor centre, examples of what it was like, some working machinery and so on. All the usual stuff. But to me, it felt light on content. Too much fluffiness with high tech bells and whistles. Why do I need to sit in a little two person ride to go through a 'story' when I could walk through at my own pace? As a parent with two children I didn't think it was well thought through.
When I was in Oz (stop yawning at the back) I felt sometimes overwhelmed by the sheer amount of information on offer at museums etc. I think I prefer it that way. For example, today I couldn't seem to find the answer to the simple question of how the raw cotton reached the mill. I knew where it came from but not how it travelled to New Lanark, Scotland, hiding in a steep valley.
I went for a stroll upstream in the evening which had turned out beautiful. Wearing my thongs to help soothe my toes. Yet again, my hopes of exciting wildlife were dashed. The massive black slug really doesn't count. The creature surfacing occasionally and randomly on the far side of the river might have met my need if only I could tell what it was. There was a sign saying you're never more than 200 metres from a badger around these parts. Oh yes? So why was he avoiding me? I did my bit of covering the odd 200m so how about meeting me half way?
The toe that looked angry yesterday is now behaving extremely badly. So I've had to give up any thought of walking tomorrow either. So, I shall be re-acquainting myself with Glasgow (sometime city of culture) on my way to Stirling. Let's hope the YH receptionist there has been on the smiling at guests course.
This probably sounds like a whinge day but I would say the setting of New Lanark is absolutely glorious.
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I think country buses are run for senior citizens. Hardly anyone is fool enough to pay to use them, they've all got passes except me. And no, that's NOT the birthday that's coming up soon, thank you. They're good though and run to timetables and you expect them to turn up. Fortunately, today was the first time I came across one running late and this meant I caught it.
Yes, while on the first bus my toe and head were having a discussion as to the merits of a 13 mile walk. The toe won. I arrived in Lanark before midday, sought out some food and did walk about a mile and a half to New Lanark where the YH is.
I'd not known anything about the place nor of Robert Owen. He pioneered the idea of work communities, campaigned for better working conditions, against child labour and so on. When he took on ownership of the mills at New Lanark, he also provided the first ever workplace nursery, and a school, 'decent' accommodation; created the first ever co-operative shop; provided a health care service. And so on. His views were not popular amongst employers - those things cost money. The 'village' provided all the employees would need.
All fascinating stuff and the setting on the banks of the Clyde is amazing. There's been a phenomenal restoration job done. The village is now lived in again (at a density lower than 12 people to two rooms) and there's a visitor centre, examples of what it was like, some working machinery and so on. All the usual stuff. But to me, it felt light on content. Too much fluffiness with high tech bells and whistles. Why do I need to sit in a little two person ride to go through a 'story' when I could walk through at my own pace? As a parent with two children I didn't think it was well thought through.
When I was in Oz (stop yawning at the back) I felt sometimes overwhelmed by the sheer amount of information on offer at museums etc. I think I prefer it that way. For example, today I couldn't seem to find the answer to the simple question of how the raw cotton reached the mill. I knew where it came from but not how it travelled to New Lanark, Scotland, hiding in a steep valley.
I went for a stroll upstream in the evening which had turned out beautiful. Wearing my thongs to help soothe my toes. Yet again, my hopes of exciting wildlife were dashed. The massive black slug really doesn't count. The creature surfacing occasionally and randomly on the far side of the river might have met my need if only I could tell what it was. There was a sign saying you're never more than 200 metres from a badger around these parts. Oh yes? So why was he avoiding me? I did my bit of covering the odd 200m so how about meeting me half way?
The toe that looked angry yesterday is now behaving extremely badly. So I've had to give up any thought of walking tomorrow either. So, I shall be re-acquainting myself with Glasgow (sometime city of culture) on my way to Stirling. Let's hope the YH receptionist there has been on the smiling at guests course.
This probably sounds like a whinge day but I would say the setting of New Lanark is absolutely glorious.
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Saturday 4 July 2009
Animals
Animals
They are funny at times. I mentioned the sheep in the heat. Today in the rain was even more hilarious. A field of sheep all standing still, not eating just standing. All facing in the same direction, including the lambs. Was like a scene from a surreal film!
Along the road, the cows were defying all those stories of sitting down in the rain. They were getting on with eating.
I'd got excited at roadsigns showing deer. I know we have them in south west London but, hey these would be wild. The only one I saw was very dead and now I know what my feet smell like - decaying deer. Aren't you glad I mentioned that?
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They are funny at times. I mentioned the sheep in the heat. Today in the rain was even more hilarious. A field of sheep all standing still, not eating just standing. All facing in the same direction, including the lambs. Was like a scene from a surreal film!
Along the road, the cows were defying all those stories of sitting down in the rain. They were getting on with eating.
I'd got excited at roadsigns showing deer. I know we have them in south west London but, hey these would be wild. The only one I saw was very dead and now I know what my feet smell like - decaying deer. Aren't you glad I mentioned that?
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Wet Wet Wet
After a little chat with the landlady about the joys of renovating a listed building (two years to get plans approved etc), I was on my way again. Nowhere near as hot as it ended yesterday but sun early on. Feet seemed good, in fact better than 24 hours earlier, and I was into a good pace.
Now I'm sensible but not paranoid about personal safety (don't suppose I'd be walking on own otherwise), so after an hour's plodding, when a 4wd type vehicle pulled in just ahead I kept an eye but continued walking towards it. It pulled out slowly and then alongside. The lady driver said "Do you want an ice lolly? You need it." And waved a Sombrero ice cream at me!!!! I spluttered "Thank you so much" and she smiled and drove off! Laughing as I unwrapped my lolly, the mind boggled as to why she had one in the car etc etc. I was smiling for hours.
I went through Lockerbie. It's odd how you know so much of the horrors the people went through but probably didn't previously have a clue as to where it was. I didn't see any signs to a memorial - I had thought I would make a detour. There was one for a Ukrainian POW thing though!
Onwards. I was learning that much of this bit of Scotland is either small or closed or both. Johnstonebridge was my lunch target, the name seemed to be in a reasonable font size... But, toe #4 on the right, the troublesome one from yesterday was whingeing. And I was getting bored with the lack of signs for J'bridge. I made for lunch at a truck stop. Good idea. If you want proper grub in good helping sizes, these are the places. And they provided a bag of ice :-) 11.46 miles done.
Troublesome toe was screaming at me. I re-dressed it and took painkillers (currently on co-codamol) but I felt like crying. About five minutes after hinting to Mike of the hurt, the drugs must have kicked in and I could walk. Even better (I thought), it was raining.
Johnstonebridge was only a mile and a half down the road and seemed to be not much more than a row of houses. Close call there.
It kept raining, place names passed and I was starting to think about where to spend the night. I know, pause at Beattock and ask about buses in a northerly direction. Nobody was in, the hotel on the map was closed and up for sale. Toe was hurting. It was still BLOODY RAINING. I followed a sign for a b&b in the hope of finding life. Nice man confessed he didn't have the new bus timetable but offered to drive me to Moffatt where there would be buses and information. Only a mile and a half he said but a wet mile and a half. I didn't refuse.
The Glasgow bus in just over an hour might do the job but I had to check in the Post Office if it stopped in my target town. (Abington for whatever reason). Just as well I did, it doesn't. Plan B? Sit and look at map. The name Biggar appeared and I'd seen it in the bus book so back I went. Nothing today, but one tomorrow at 09.55 and from there it's about 13 miles to the YH at New Lanark. Done.
So now I'm Moffatt looking for accommodation. Finally got someone 'to let me have' a twin for single occupation. I was dripping and offered to take my shoes off before entering. Accepted and then the man said he'd take them away and try to get them dry. Either that or he mistakenly thought I might do a runner! Not an en-suite room but it has a nice towelling dressing gown to wear :-)
So, my feet ache a little and my toe hurts slightly more. Hence, the short day planned for tomorrow. Goodness knows what the weather will bring.
Today's total a sometimes hurty 20.38 miles.
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Thursday 2 July 2009
Hot hot hot
I've managed to pick the two hottest days of the year to walk this week. Not the best idea.
Despite reports that it was going to be 29C in Carlisle, it was pretty hazy and not bad to start this morning. I left the b&b a little before 9am. Having ended up there by chance, it was really very good. Lovely room, all newly refurbished, swish en suite shower room and breakfast was excellent. I don't do cooked food in the morning but there was still cereal, grapefruit segments and yoghurt to go at. Along with toast (no marmite though) I was offered croissants too! If you're going to Carlisle I can let you have the details.
Where was I? Ah yes, best foot forward and all that, I was listening to every twinge and tweak from the feet region. As a result I had two stops early on to faff with my shoes, the cushions and goodness knows what else. I can now almost walk properly, right foot has given in to my demands to behave while left is still resisting too much heel strike. While it wasn't too hot I kept going. Trouble is, when I started seeking a lunch stop I was in this place called Longtown which I didn't like the look of. Finding it had an MOD place attached did help to explain.
So I headed on to Gretna and ate there. So it was that I ended up doing 12.76 before lunch. Feet were hot but otherwise seemed ok. I ordered my customary food, pint of lime and soda and lots of ice (in plastic bags not the soda). One toe was threatening to blister so I wrapped it but otherwise just concentrated on cooling my feet and shoes.
I had hoped to get past Kirkpatrick Fleming, my original destination for today, and that was no problem. Plodding on, I missed the first turning for Kirtlebridge where I was going to take a tea break and review my desire to reach Ecclefechan (birthplace of Thomas Carlyle - you knew that didn't you). I made it to Kirtlebridge (yellow roads, orange roads they all look the same to me) to then confirm today's discovery that, although the Scots have a reputation of liking a drink, some of their pubs don't open until the early evening!! Got some tap water from a local and sat in the shade outside the pub. Good news was that she said Ecclefechan was only 2.5-3 miles away. For some reason, I had it in my head that it was 6, so yippee!
I staggered into the Hotel Ecclefechan and enquired after their rooms, food and beer. I was in a lovely, cool, newly refurbished room within minutes. Simple modern look with an exposed brick wall. And in the bar not long after. The place looks a tip on the outside but there's work ongoing and the results so far are good. Dinner was macaroni cheese and chips washed down with a pint. I was invited to 'mix in with that lot, they don't bite'! A very convivial time :-)
I did a total of 22.22. There's a new toe blister but generally I'm encouraged. Fingers crossed for tomorrow (especially that I find somewhere to stay).
Oh, the B7076 is a really quiet road with a sadly disproportionately high amount of litter. Nul points, Ecosse.
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Despite reports that it was going to be 29C in Carlisle, it was pretty hazy and not bad to start this morning. I left the b&b a little before 9am. Having ended up there by chance, it was really very good. Lovely room, all newly refurbished, swish en suite shower room and breakfast was excellent. I don't do cooked food in the morning but there was still cereal, grapefruit segments and yoghurt to go at. Along with toast (no marmite though) I was offered croissants too! If you're going to Carlisle I can let you have the details.
Where was I? Ah yes, best foot forward and all that, I was listening to every twinge and tweak from the feet region. As a result I had two stops early on to faff with my shoes, the cushions and goodness knows what else. I can now almost walk properly, right foot has given in to my demands to behave while left is still resisting too much heel strike. While it wasn't too hot I kept going. Trouble is, when I started seeking a lunch stop I was in this place called Longtown which I didn't like the look of. Finding it had an MOD place attached did help to explain.
So I headed on to Gretna and ate there. So it was that I ended up doing 12.76 before lunch. Feet were hot but otherwise seemed ok. I ordered my customary food, pint of lime and soda and lots of ice (in plastic bags not the soda). One toe was threatening to blister so I wrapped it but otherwise just concentrated on cooling my feet and shoes.
I had hoped to get past Kirkpatrick Fleming, my original destination for today, and that was no problem. Plodding on, I missed the first turning for Kirtlebridge where I was going to take a tea break and review my desire to reach Ecclefechan (birthplace of Thomas Carlyle - you knew that didn't you). I made it to Kirtlebridge (yellow roads, orange roads they all look the same to me) to then confirm today's discovery that, although the Scots have a reputation of liking a drink, some of their pubs don't open until the early evening!! Got some tap water from a local and sat in the shade outside the pub. Good news was that she said Ecclefechan was only 2.5-3 miles away. For some reason, I had it in my head that it was 6, so yippee!
I staggered into the Hotel Ecclefechan and enquired after their rooms, food and beer. I was in a lovely, cool, newly refurbished room within minutes. Simple modern look with an exposed brick wall. And in the bar not long after. The place looks a tip on the outside but there's work ongoing and the results so far are good. Dinner was macaroni cheese and chips washed down with a pint. I was invited to 'mix in with that lot, they don't bite'! A very convivial time :-)
I did a total of 22.22. There's a new toe blister but generally I'm encouraged. Fingers crossed for tomorrow (especially that I find somewhere to stay).
Oh, the B7076 is a really quiet road with a sadly disproportionately high amount of litter. Nul points, Ecosse.
Please sponsor me: www.justgiving.com/womblejog
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Wednesday 1 July 2009
Nearly in Scotland
Finally, I've moved on from the home comforts of Kendal. Only to find I have a stalker! A young man, reminiscent of Wurzel Gummidge after a wash, tried to chug me for the RSPCA in Kendal the other day. Today, I get to Carlisle and he's here again still chugging. Thing is he spots me, stops to chat! I told him to stop following me :-)
I caught the bus by the scenic route. Well, why not? I even went upstairs (which is a big deal for me) to make the most of the views and it was worth it. Today has been hazy and I thought we were supposed to get stormed on but the only rain has been while I was in the pub having my dinner (mushroom, sweet potato & spinach stroganoff with rice and garlic bread). It was wonderful, seeing the lakes in their glory, the fells all craggy and green and unpredictable. I'm afraid I can't tell you which ones unless I look at the map. Who cares, it was beautiful.
I saw a big bird of prey, might have been a buzzard but could have been anything. The tv says there are nesting ospreys but I don't suppose it was one of them. I was amused to see the sheep lolling about in the heat, seeking shade by a wall or under a tree. Why do some of them still have their woolly jumpers on? Even the cows looked hot and I've seen them surviving in the Outback!
Stone walls, the place is full of them. Snaking about, up ridiculous slopes, winding along, who made them, when? They are a true feat of engineering and effort. Sheep, or the land, must have been highly prized to want to build miles and miles of stone wall by hand.
I was supposed to be staying at the YH but the Tourist Info lady in Kendal didn't know the nugget that the Carlisle one did - it's in university accommodation and doesn't open until Monday. Oops. So I'm in a very plush b&b with sky tv, en suite and everything.
Tomorrow I plan to hit the road again. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
Please sponsor me: www.justgiving.com/womblejog
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
I caught the bus by the scenic route. Well, why not? I even went upstairs (which is a big deal for me) to make the most of the views and it was worth it. Today has been hazy and I thought we were supposed to get stormed on but the only rain has been while I was in the pub having my dinner (mushroom, sweet potato & spinach stroganoff with rice and garlic bread). It was wonderful, seeing the lakes in their glory, the fells all craggy and green and unpredictable. I'm afraid I can't tell you which ones unless I look at the map. Who cares, it was beautiful.
I saw a big bird of prey, might have been a buzzard but could have been anything. The tv says there are nesting ospreys but I don't suppose it was one of them. I was amused to see the sheep lolling about in the heat, seeking shade by a wall or under a tree. Why do some of them still have their woolly jumpers on? Even the cows looked hot and I've seen them surviving in the Outback!
Stone walls, the place is full of them. Snaking about, up ridiculous slopes, winding along, who made them, when? They are a true feat of engineering and effort. Sheep, or the land, must have been highly prized to want to build miles and miles of stone wall by hand.
I was supposed to be staying at the YH but the Tourist Info lady in Kendal didn't know the nugget that the Carlisle one did - it's in university accommodation and doesn't open until Monday. Oops. So I'm in a very plush b&b with sky tv, en suite and everything.
Tomorrow I plan to hit the road again. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
Please sponsor me: www.justgiving.com/womblejog
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
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