The b&b was very comfortable and the breakfast good but I had a dreadful night's sleep. We'd asked for breakfast at 07.30 so we could get on our way. I was walking again before 9.
The day was dull and overcast, good conditions for walking. Mike went shopping for lunch and to recce the finish. He then cycled back and we did the last 4 or so together. In the last mile or two the sun came out and it was lovely. You could see the islands to the north and the buildings of John O'Groats as they finally came into view. We stopped for a picture by the town sign then Mike went to find the actual start/finish line!
I'd been a bit anxious as I set off to do the walk but once I was doing the last few yards I just started to cry. Too much emotion! So my race finish photo is rubbish as usual! Big hug sorted that anyway, quite quickly :-)
13.57 for the day and about 462 for the walk.
We swiftly retired to a nearby patch of grass to drink champagne from real flutes! No-one else we saw was drinking champers in their official photo :-) At least here they weren't so precious about folk taking their own photos at The Signpost. You were asked to shift for those of us paying though! Lots of cyclists were arriving in packs having finished. The only other walker we saw was a chap we had met at Helmsdale YH, and who we're pretty sure also camped at the same place we b&b-ed at in Dunbeath. He'd taken it more slowly at about 71 days but of course I imagine he did manage to walk it all.
There was a great atmosphere around the place of people having completed the End to End or about to embark on their own journey. Little bits of banter and wishing good luck and the inevitable "It's that way". Plenty of tourists too but they seemed to understand what was going on.
Lunch was leisurely in the sun, then off to the gift shop and yes they did have fridge magnets. We popped along to Duncansby Head the actual most north-easterly spot on the mainland.
And now we're on way home. Premier Inn Glasgow East awaits.
PHEW
What shall we do next.....?
;-)
Thursday 16 July 2009
Wednesday 15 July 2009
Almost there ....
So yesterday we stopped at a campsite in Dunbeath but enjoyed b&b and ate Trevor's food. The restaurant looks like a motorway cafe on the outside but is far more promising once you get in. Apparently there are great plans afoot for a transformation, which is good because the place has fantastic views along the coast from the dining room.
Mike's job today was to find accommodation in Wick, which he did (of course as he's clever like that) and then come and find me no earlier than ten miles bearing a picnic. So, lunch was at 11.45 miles in the corner of a field sitting on my FLM foil blanket. Despite me proclaiming that it was going to rain, it was sunny all morning and I hadn't put on any cream and my hat was in the car. Come the afternoon, all creamed up and be-hatted, a sea fog descended and I was safe from solar damage. Mike ran back 3.6 from the b&b to do his first run for a week and then we walked in to Wick together. Did you know Caithness Candles are based here...?
I'd done a smidge under 20, so after a coffee and some cake (thank you Ann!) I went out again to do about 4 of tomorrow's miles. Total for the day of 23.39, total to-date of about 450 and 13 left for tomorrow.
Almost there.......
Mike's job today was to find accommodation in Wick, which he did (of course as he's clever like that) and then come and find me no earlier than ten miles bearing a picnic. So, lunch was at 11.45 miles in the corner of a field sitting on my FLM foil blanket. Despite me proclaiming that it was going to rain, it was sunny all morning and I hadn't put on any cream and my hat was in the car. Come the afternoon, all creamed up and be-hatted, a sea fog descended and I was safe from solar damage. Mike ran back 3.6 from the b&b to do his first run for a week and then we walked in to Wick together. Did you know Caithness Candles are based here...?
I'd done a smidge under 20, so after a coffee and some cake (thank you Ann!) I went out again to do about 4 of tomorrow's miles. Total for the day of 23.39, total to-date of about 450 and 13 left for tomorrow.
Almost there.......
Tuesday 14 July 2009
Tuesday - two days to go after this
Helmsdale was ahead of where I stopped walking yesterday, so the first 5.11 miles today found me back at the doorstep of the YH. By which time guess what? Yes, it was fekking raining again. I had read in a book that today was probably the hilliest day on this stretch, if not altogether, and the climb out of Helmsdale was long, long but not terribly steep. I just kept going and managed to average 3.7 mph for the morning's 11.7.
The rendezvous for lunch was a layby and I thought we were going to picnic there but Mike suggested that we go up the road to a tea place (so I could go to the toilet indoors and not behind a bush). It was a good idea but happened to be in Dunbeath just past the caravan site where he'd booked us in to stay (in the house not a tent or metal box). So he then drove us back to said layby and left me to walk while he had a bath and a snooze. I refused to know how far it was, I didn't think that was good psychology, especially if it were further than I thought it should be.
The afternoon was dry, thank goodness. Highlight was beating a cyclist up a hill! It was funny, I didn't realise I was competitive until this cyclist went past me on a downhill but the accompanying 'up' was just over there. I thought "I'll have him". Didn't know where that came from at all! Anyway, he stopped to push very quickly, there was a little bit of him leading, me overtaking and so on and then I left him behind. It was a long time (a mile?) before he caught up again. I heckled and said "At last, where have you been?". The reply? "Catching up" :-) After that I didn't care! It turned out that Dunbeath wasn't so far away, so after 8pointsomething I reached the caravan site and turned in. 19.92 for the day.
"Trevor does good food" apparently, so we went a few yards down the road for dinner. Lovely sea view and the food wasn't too bad. They got brownie points for cooking me something not on the menu. The sea had been clad in a very low fog all morning and had only cleared in the late afternoon. The views were magical, not being able to tell where the colours of the water turned into the variations in the sky. I had been experiencing zero network coverage all day, which was a tad annoying, especially today. After we had eaten, we retired to the adjacent bar and I had forced my phone to turn off and turn on again (I don't actually know how to turn on/off my phone - Mike shook his head), Miniwomble managed to get through on a call from Detroit. Apparently, downtown is possibly the most boring place she's ever been to. But. She's seeing Green Day there this evening, so it can't be all bad. It was great to hear from her. A couple of texts from Megawomble sneaked through too. I'd had to use Mike's phone earlier in the day as it was the first time that Orange beat O2 in the availability stakes.
So, two days to go and about 47 miles. I'd seen a sign post not long before the stopover and I read it and thought "I can walk that far in one day if necessary"!! Tomorrow night should find us in Wick.
This post brought to you courtesy of wi-fi at £2.50 a day.
The rendezvous for lunch was a layby and I thought we were going to picnic there but Mike suggested that we go up the road to a tea place (so I could go to the toilet indoors and not behind a bush). It was a good idea but happened to be in Dunbeath just past the caravan site where he'd booked us in to stay (in the house not a tent or metal box). So he then drove us back to said layby and left me to walk while he had a bath and a snooze. I refused to know how far it was, I didn't think that was good psychology, especially if it were further than I thought it should be.
The afternoon was dry, thank goodness. Highlight was beating a cyclist up a hill! It was funny, I didn't realise I was competitive until this cyclist went past me on a downhill but the accompanying 'up' was just over there. I thought "I'll have him". Didn't know where that came from at all! Anyway, he stopped to push very quickly, there was a little bit of him leading, me overtaking and so on and then I left him behind. It was a long time (a mile?) before he caught up again. I heckled and said "At last, where have you been?". The reply? "Catching up" :-) After that I didn't care! It turned out that Dunbeath wasn't so far away, so after 8pointsomething I reached the caravan site and turned in. 19.92 for the day.
"Trevor does good food" apparently, so we went a few yards down the road for dinner. Lovely sea view and the food wasn't too bad. They got brownie points for cooking me something not on the menu. The sea had been clad in a very low fog all morning and had only cleared in the late afternoon. The views were magical, not being able to tell where the colours of the water turned into the variations in the sky. I had been experiencing zero network coverage all day, which was a tad annoying, especially today. After we had eaten, we retired to the adjacent bar and I had forced my phone to turn off and turn on again (I don't actually know how to turn on/off my phone - Mike shook his head), Miniwomble managed to get through on a call from Detroit. Apparently, downtown is possibly the most boring place she's ever been to. But. She's seeing Green Day there this evening, so it can't be all bad. It was great to hear from her. A couple of texts from Megawomble sneaked through too. I'd had to use Mike's phone earlier in the day as it was the first time that Orange beat O2 in the availability stakes.
So, two days to go and about 47 miles. I'd seen a sign post not long before the stopover and I read it and thought "I can walk that far in one day if necessary"!! Tomorrow night should find us in Wick.
This post brought to you courtesy of wi-fi at £2.50 a day.
Monday 13 July 2009
Monday I have Thursday on my mind
We left Dornoch and the lovely landlord and it wasn't raining. Mike did the first 6 with me as we were on quiet back roads and then cycled to the car and went forward to Golspie for our lunch.
We're pretty much on the coast all the time now and saw loads of seals sunbathing (well - if it had been sunny) on a sandbank on Loch Fleet. Fantastic!! We also saw lots of rabbits, nothing new there except I confirmed to myself that I wasn't going bonkers the other day when I thought I spotted a black bunny. I saw another and so did Mike The weather did hold quite well: Mike got caught in a shower and I didn't.
Golspie wasn't overburdened with choice for lunch so we had baked potatoes at a hotel/pub. Mike drove on to Helmsdale to do the shopping and accommodation finding while I enjoyed the delights of the A9. It's become my new A30. I think the pattern is now set for the next three days of walking - between sea and hills. Could be worse!
We got in at the Helmsdale YH. Mike picked me up along the way back from Brora where he realised he had to go to find fuel. 11.07 in the morning and 12.03 this afternoon. Not bad.
We're pretty much on the coast all the time now and saw loads of seals sunbathing (well - if it had been sunny) on a sandbank on Loch Fleet. Fantastic!! We also saw lots of rabbits, nothing new there except I confirmed to myself that I wasn't going bonkers the other day when I thought I spotted a black bunny. I saw another and so did Mike
Golspie wasn't overburdened with choice for lunch so we had baked potatoes at a hotel/pub. Mike drove on to Helmsdale to do the shopping and accommodation finding while I enjoyed the delights of the A9. It's become my new A30. I think the pattern is now set for the next three days of walking - between sea and hills. Could be worse!
We got in at the Helmsdale YH. Mike picked me up along the way back from Brora where he realised he had to go to find fuel. 11.07 in the morning and 12.03 this afternoon. Not bad.
Sunday report - Real Clothes!
We left the free wi-fi hotspot of Alness and made our separate ways forward. Me, on foot, continuing my liaison with cycle route number 1 and Mike driving on to Dornoch in search of our next night's bed.
The weather was 'mixed' to start with and then settled into a familiar pattern. RAIN. Mike started to text from Dornoch, saying how different it was to Alness - champagne in the fridge at the local Spar and real restaurants. But I had to stop the conversation as I didn't want to drown the phone.
The route was pretty flat and very low traffic. A recumbent tricyclist and friend went past, as did a runner who said hello. Of course I replied. A couple of other walkers were sheltering under a tree and we exchanged 'lovely day's.
I saw a grouse! Well it looked like one of those birds on the front of a whisky bottle so I suppose that's what it was. There was a very cute grey calf too, that stood and watched me go by. And I found sheep that didn't run off just because I was on the other side of a fence or wall to them. Perhaps my sheep-friendly body language is improving.
Mike found me about a mile before Tain. On his bike, he was sodden. I had thought he would be perfectly justified in driving to lunch and then letting me continue alone. We had a discussion about who was mad. Score draw I think!
Tain appeared to be another one of those towns that was shut but we finally found the Sunflowers Cafe and dripped our way in for some lunch and a rest. Weather was bit drier in the afternoon and we got to Dornoch. 20.7 miles done.
Mike had warned me that the b&b was 'characterful', the first quirk being no breakfast! It was in one of those lovely stone built villas that I'd been walking past for days, so it was great to go in one. The proprietor was aged 80 and had run the place for about 20 years, which is possibly when it was last decorated. But it was like going to stay at your favourite uncle's. We could make our own tea and coffee in the conservatory and use the lounge for tv or just ... lounging. There were oil paintings, prints of horses, family photos and all sorts, including table tennis trophies. The owner I think liked to meet people as much as being bothered to run a b&b. Like many people, he had led an interesting life - been homeless and on the streets of Hammersmith as a youth, worked in aerospace and been a union person, been on a Concorde test flight. We had a chat about Tony Benn who he had met several times through his union involvement.
In the evening we had a lovely meal at Luigi's over the road. We were their last booking at 8.30pm - us and our London ways. We had champagne and wore real clothes, as opposed to technical kit in need of a wash. Mike had brought me some stuff to wear at the end of the walk, so I broke into that. I even had some jewellery to wear as I'd picked some up in M&S Inverness to go with my dress for the Queen's Tea Party!
In the morning, we were presented with a little book of Mr Landlord's favourite clippings, quotes and general pieces. What a wonderful chap!
Posting this a little late as now Mike's here, well, I've got better things to do ;-)
The weather was 'mixed' to start with and then settled into a familiar pattern. RAIN. Mike started to text from Dornoch, saying how different it was to Alness - champagne in the fridge at the local Spar and real restaurants. But I had to stop the conversation as I didn't want to drown the phone.
The route was pretty flat and very low traffic. A recumbent tricyclist and friend went past, as did a runner who said hello. Of course I replied. A couple of other walkers were sheltering under a tree and we exchanged 'lovely day's.
I saw a grouse! Well it looked like one of those birds on the front of a whisky bottle so I suppose that's what it was. There was a very cute grey calf too, that stood and watched me go by. And I found sheep that didn't run off just because I was on the other side of a fence or wall to them. Perhaps my sheep-friendly body language is improving.
Mike found me about a mile before Tain. On his bike, he was sodden. I had thought he would be perfectly justified in driving to lunch and then letting me continue alone. We had a discussion about who was mad. Score draw I think!
Tain appeared to be another one of those towns that was shut but we finally found the Sunflowers Cafe and dripped our way in for some lunch and a rest. Weather was bit drier in the afternoon and we got to Dornoch. 20.7 miles done.
Mike had warned me that the b&b was 'characterful', the first quirk being no breakfast! It was in one of those lovely stone built villas that I'd been walking past for days, so it was great to go in one. The proprietor was aged 80 and had run the place for about 20 years, which is possibly when it was last decorated. But it was like going to stay at your favourite uncle's. We could make our own tea and coffee in the conservatory and use the lounge for tv or just ... lounging. There were oil paintings, prints of horses, family photos and all sorts, including table tennis trophies. The owner I think liked to meet people as much as being bothered to run a b&b. Like many people, he had led an interesting life - been homeless and on the streets of Hammersmith as a youth, worked in aerospace and been a union person, been on a Concorde test flight. We had a chat about Tony Benn who he had met several times through his union involvement.
In the evening we had a lovely meal at Luigi's over the road. We were their last booking at 8.30pm - us and our London ways. We had champagne and wore real clothes, as opposed to technical kit in need of a wash. Mike had brought me some stuff to wear at the end of the walk, so I broke into that. I even had some jewellery to wear as I'd picked some up in M&S Inverness to go with my dress for the Queen's Tea Party!
In the morning, we were presented with a little book of Mr Landlord's favourite clippings, quotes and general pieces. What a wonderful chap!
Posting this a little late as now Mike's here, well, I've got better things to do ;-)
Sunday 12 July 2009
A revised schedule
Saturday: Duncanston to Alness and meet up with Mike :o))
Sunday: Alness to Dornoch
Monday: Dornoch to Lothbeg (middle of nowhere between Brora and Helmsdale - stay at one of those two)
Tuesday: Lothbeg to Dunbeath
Wednesday: Dunbeath to Wick
Thursday: Wick to JOG.......
Sunday: Alness to Dornoch
Monday: Dornoch to Lothbeg (middle of nowhere between Brora and Helmsdale - stay at one of those two)
Tuesday: Lothbeg to Dunbeath
Wednesday: Dunbeath to Wick
Thursday: Wick to JOG.......
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